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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.